February 25, 2014

Hellebores In Stock!

They're the quintessential flower of winter, and they're now in-stock at the nursery: hellebores! This great shade-loving perennial has undergone a wonderful renaissance in recent years, and today's hellebores are showier, more compact, more floriferous (i.e. bloom more!) and more colorful than any from just 10 years ago.

Hellebores are a durable, easy-to-maintain perennial great for shade to part sun, and we've just received our first shipment of 5 of our favorite varieties. From pink flowers to white to dark purple, from deep green leaves to speckled green and white, from dwarf to full size varieties, there's bound to be a hellebore with your name on it! Stop to check them out today.

February 20, 2014

Bareroot Fruit Trees $10 Off!

If you've ever considered growing your own fruit trees, now is the time of year to plant. While trees
are still dormant is the best time for transplant--like a sleeping baby laid in his crib, a tree that hasn't yet leafed out for the year won't even know it's been moved!

This year, we've greatly expanded the number and variety of fruit trees available for sale, and for a limited time, they're $10 off when you purchase them bareroot.

Included in our selection are the following:
  • Apple (Braeburn, Gravenstein, Honeycrisp, Jonagold, King, Spartan)
  • Cherry (Bing, Lambert, Rainier)
  • Plum (Italian Prune, Stanley)
  • Oriental Pear (Shinseiki)
  • Peach (Frost)
  • Pear (Bartlett, Bosc)
All of our fruit trees are grafted onto dwarf rootstocks, reaching a mature height of 12'-15' unpruned--all varieties may be pruned shorter for ease of harvest. Honeycrisp apple is also available as a mini-dwarf, reaching only 6-9' tall.

If you need help picking out varieties of fruit to suit your taste, growing conditions or gardening experience, let us help--we can help eliminate the guesswork and ensure your gardening success. 

Popular varieties of our fruit trees tend to sell fast, so take advantage of our great pricing while supplies last! 

Sand or Clay--Take Steps to Improve Your Soil



Good soil goes a long way toward gardening success!
Working in a nursery, it’s one of most common questions I’m asked by customers: “How do I deal with ____ soil?” The question is asked because they have a problem on either end of the spectrum of soil types: sand or clay. In our area, chances are pretty good you have one of these two types of soil, and knowing how to properly deal with both can go a long way to ensure gardening success in the coming year.

First, sandy soil—although a nuisance, it can be easily remedied. The two main problems associated with sandy soil are lack of nutrient-holding capacity and the inability to hold water. Gardeners with sandy ground know how frustrating it can be to try to keep plants growing in soil where both nutrients and water simply drain away. 

If the soil in your flowerbeds is too sandy for plants to thrive, spade or rototill nutrient-rich compost into your beds; if that’s not an option, spreading a layer of compost on top will allow the nutrients and organic matter to slowly work into the soil, albeit over a longer period of time. At Vander Giessen's, we carry compost both in bulk or bags, so no matter how much or little you need, we can help.

As frustrating as some gardeners find sandy soil, it’s far better than clay. For much of the year, rains keep our gardens well-watered and without the good drainage that sandy ground provides, many plants struggle and can even rot in clay. 

In established flowerbeds, treat clay soils like you would sand: add compost. Breaking up the heavy consistency of clay will promote drainage and allow plant roots to develop. Compost must be added liberally and often, though, as clay has a tendency to make a comeback. 

If in the coming year you have plans to plant anything new in clay, take time to first dig a test hole several feet deep. In some parts of Lynden, for example, clay is only a couple feet thick, and beyond it is pure, clean sand. 

If you find that your beds have only a shallow layer of clay, it may be easy enough to dig a drainage hole under each shrub or tree you wish to plant. If you’re not so fortunate, however—or don’t feel like going to the work of that much extra digging, don’t think you can get away with just adding some good soil to the hole when you plant a new-found treasure. 

No matter how wide or deep you dig a hole when you plant something in heavy clay, all you’re really doing is making a bigger bowl for water to collect in when it rains. While fresh, well-drained topsoil is just what your plants need, the key to planting in clay is to raise the roots above it. 

First, dig your hole as deep as the root ball of your plant. Then, before planting, backfill the hole at least halfway with a good mix of fresh topsoil and compost. Set your plant onto that layer—the top of the root ball should be sticking up at least halfway out of the hole—and finish filling in around the roots. Gently slope the new soil down away from the base of the plant, creating a mound for the newly-planted shrub or tree. On a larger scale, you can replicate this by planting new flowerbeds up on slightly-raised berms. In time, most plants will root into clay soils, but for the first season or two, the presence of well-drained, nutrient-rich soil will allow plants to get established and begin to develop healthy root systems. 

As spring approaches, take some time to plan what you can do in your flowerbeds to improve your soil. Sand or clay, taking the proper steps early on in the season will reward you with healthy plants all summer long—and for years to come.