December 20, 2013

Steps to Protect At-Risk Plants from Winter Damage



Here in the Pacific Northwest, our seasons can typically be described quite simply: mild. That said, in the last two weeks our area has seen some of the coldest weather in three years, so if you’re wondering what steps you can take to protect your plants from winter damage, here are a few tips.

First off, let me preface this by noting that while this most recent cold weather is past, January is typically when we get the worst winter weather, so it’s never too late to take steps to protect your plants. 

In recent years, container gardening has surged in popularity. While summer is the most common time of year for container gardening, you may still have some pots of winter pansies, dwarf evergreens or other plants of seasonal interest outdoors. If you haven’t yet offered them any protection for winter, keep in mind that any plant with its roots aboveground—as with anything in a container—is more susceptible to freeze damage. While night frosts merit little concern, days of subfreezing weather pose a serious threat to potted plants.  

To protect container gardens from damage, wrap pots in bubble wrap and cover the top with a layer or two of garbage bags. Keep in mind that creating a tent over your plants is equivalent to building a small greenhouse, so remove the tent as soon as the weather warms up. 

A second step you can take is to move containers indoors during bad weather, preferably to an unheated garage. Avoid moving containers into a heated space; doing so may make your plants think spring has arrived and want to start growing. 

If you don’t have an unheated indoor space readily available for your containers, move your pots into a sheltered, south- or west-facing side of the house. With the sun so low in the sky this time of year, utilizing a south or west exposure will keep your pots warmer and can also protect them from wind damage. 

Speaking of wind, if you spent anytime outside during the recent winter weather, you know that the wind itself was as unbearable as the frigid temperatures. For plants, wind poses two major threats: desiccation and the potential to break branches. 

First, wind can quickly desiccate—dry out—plants. In subfreezing weather you may not be able to easily keep your plants watered, but as soon as the temperatures climb above freezing, get to watering, containers especially. Rain or melting snow will usually take care of the task for you, but in the event we go from cold sun to less-cold sun (it’s December—forget about warm sun!), be prepared to water.

Secondly, the strong gusts of a winter windstorm can easily snap branches on delicate or cold-brittle plants. If it’s either impractical or impossible to move or stake a plant susceptible to wind damage, grab a pruner and get to work. While fresh wounds on a plant will themselves be at risk for winter damage, it’s better you prune a plant and save it than let a gust of wind prune it for you and kill it. 

Finally, keep in mind that plants are resilient. If a typically-hardy plant in your yard looks wilted, it’s likely a natural defense against cold, dry weather; expect it to bounce back as soon as warmer, wetter weather arrives. Winter cold can be hard on plants, but it’s great for killing insects and pushing plants into much-needed dormancy, so take what steps you need to protect your plants and learn to appreciate the benefits of another season. 

December 4, 2013

Christmas Open House!

It's that time of year again--the Christmas Open House at Vander Giessen's! Visit us this Saturday, December 7 for hot, fresh olie bollen made with our secret family recipe--people tell us they're the best around--as well as coffee, apple cider and hot cocoa.

While you're here, be sure to check out our beautiful selection of poinsettias, handmade wreaths, cedar garland and Christmas trees.

Also, don't miss out on our 2014 calendars--they're now available and once again are packed with great coupons, garden tips and beautiful photos each month!

We look forward to celebrating Christmas with you; join us from 10:00-3:00 for our open house!

November 22, 2013

Christmas Trees & Decor

Just a quick note to all who may be eager for the Christmas season--

Despite the construction project on our new garden center, we will be carrying our full selection of Christmas trees and decor for the holiday season! Our supply of Christmas trees, wreaths and garland will be arriving on Monday, November 25; poinsettias will be here on Wednesday the 27th.

Please feel free to stop in anytime throughout the week to browse what we have in stock--if you're looking to get the house decorated before Thanksgiving we're here to help!

Also, please mark your calendars for our annual Christmas open house on Saturday, December 7 from 10-3. Learn more about the open house here, and be sure to stop in; it's a delicious, fun way to celebrate the season with your family!

November 21, 2013

Wrap Up Gardening with a Strong Finish



As we ease into winter, another season of gardening draws to a close. Before you store your gardening
gloves and forget what dirt under your fingernails looks like, take a few minutes this month to wrap up some simple garden tasks to finish the year strong.

Last month I wrote about steps you can take this fall for a healthy lawn through winter and into next spring. If you didn’t have time in October to get everything done, keep in mind that you can treat for moss and turf-damaging grubs or worms at any time—it’s never too late to keep your lawn healthy! Likewise, “winterizing” fertilizer can be applied anytime this month or next to feed your lawn through the winter months and into spring. 

With the last of the leaves falling, take some time in the next couple of weeks to do a final clean-up of your yard. If the rain hasn’t plastered fallen leaves in place on your grass and flowerbeds yet, it will soon, so don’t expect a good wind storm will take care of things. A little effort in raking can save a lot of headache of dealing with dead grass next spring—leaves left to rot on your lawn can rot your grass right along with. 
Additionally, while leaves do provide some insulation to the plants in your beds, they may harbor insect eggs, mold spores or other diseases. So, while fallen leaves can serve a purpose in your flowerbeds, the risks often outweigh the benefits. In other words, grab your rake and get to work! 

If you do have tender plants that could benefit from some protection around their roots this winter, insulate them with a layer of fine- or medium-grade bark. The mulch will keep your plants safe while allowing for proper drainage, and in the spring, you can spread the extra bark around your flowerbeds.

As for pruning, take some time this month to prune back only the plants that might be at risk of damage in a wind or snow storm this winter, including roses. Our long, warm summer this year helped roses grow beautifully, but left unpruned, tall rose canes can break off in a northeaster or under the weight of snow. With roses, prune your bushes back halfway after the leaves begin to fall or around Thanksgiving, whichever comes first. Likewise, other plants in your yard that may be at risk of breaking in inclement weather may benefit from a similar pruning this month.  

When you’re done with your garden tools for the season, prepare them for a winter’s rest by cleaning them and oiling any metal surfaces to prevent rust. Garden tools today are often treated as throwaway conveniences, but with a little bit of care, a good quality tool should last for years. If you’re really looking for a way to keep your tools in prime condition, use a bastard file to sharpen the blades of your shovels or hoe. Typically, even new shovels only have a semi-sharp blade, so you’ll be impressed how much easier digging can be next spring when you haul out your freshly-sharpened tools!

Finally, before you forget all your successes (and failures) from the past year, make some notes of what worked and what you could have improved in your gardening endeavors over the last year. Gardening can involve a lot of trial and error, so take a minute to journal your results for next season.

Soon, the holiday season will be in full swing, so wrap up another year of gardening with a strong finish.

October 25, 2013

Take Steps Now for a Healthy Spring Lawn



As we get into autumn, leaves begin to fall, temperatures drop and all things green begin to go dormant.While you may be tired of lawn care—believe me, even the most enthusiastic gardeners do!—this season is an important time to take several key steps to ensure a beautiful lawn next spring.

The first step is to prevent night crawler damage. While useful in aerating your soil and a part of the ecosystem of your yard, left unchecked, night crawlers can wreak havoc on a smooth lawn. During the summer months, night crawler activity is minimal; the hard, dry surface of a summer lawn is just plain tough to burrow through. But when the fall rains come, the ground quickly softens and night crawlers get back to work leaving their castings on your grass and creating innumerable bumps across your yard.

To reduce the population of night crawlers, spread a granular insecticide like Sevin. A couple applications a year will help to keep night crawlers from damaging your turf and also eliminate other insects like cranefly larvae that can destroy grass.

A second step you should take to keep your lawn healthy going into winter is moss control. While moss is most noticeable in early spring when you start to work in the yard, it’s never entirely gone, and as we get into cooler weather it begins to grow once again. If you’re starting to see moss growing in your lawn, take swift action by applying a dose of ferrous sulfate. Lawn grasses won’t grow much in winter, but moss will, so avoid the problem of a moss-infested lawn next spring by killing it now. 

To discourage moss from returning, follow up your moss-killing spree with a healthy dose of lime; a product like Lilly Miller Super Sweet will give you the best results. Gardeners ask me all the time what our soil pH is—and some even go to the work of having their soil tested. Unless you need to know your pH for growing a specific type of plant, skip the testing and know that your soil is acidic. Period. Soils in western Washington are very “sour,” or acidic, and as a result, moss thrives. By “sweetening” your soil—balancing the pH—you can slow the growth of moss and give your grass a better chance to thrive. 

Finally, did you know that fall may be the most important time to fertilize your lawn? It’s easy to lose steam this time of year when it comes to lawn care—you just want to put the mower away, hang up your hat and call it a day. But don’t forget to feed the lawn! Now, the aforementioned lawn care steps can and should be taken this month, but don’t rush the fertilizer. In fact, wait until you’re finished raking leaves this fall and just before you start to think about switching out corn stalks for Christmas lights—winterizing fertilizer should be applied in November.

Spring and summer lawn fertilizer is geared toward top growth—the part of the lawn you see. Fall fertilizer or winterizer is for root development and storage of nutrients for a better green-up next spring, thus, you should wait until your grass is essentially done growing to apply it—and in our area, that’s usually sometime in November.  

It’s not a time of year when most people are trying to build a beautiful lawn, but fall is a critical time for taking care of your lawn. With the proper steps, you can lay the foundation for a lush, healthy start to next year.

October 21, 2013

Big Changes in Store at Vander Giessen's!

Example of the architecture to expect with
our new garden center!
For the last three years, we've been hard at work behind the scenes researching new greenhouse structuresto better serve our customers. After countless hours of preparation, we're excited to announce a complete rebuild of our greenhouses and sales office at Vander Giessen Nursery!

If you've driven past the nursery in the last week, you may have noticed some changes starting to take shape as we've done initial work on this project. Today, we're demolishing our old, outdated and deteriorating greenhouses and sales office to make way for a new glass greenhouse structure to be completed by next spring. While our existing greenhouses have served us well over the last 75 years, they simply have come to the end of their useful life. Some of the benefits we look forward to sharing with you in our new garden center include:
  • Wider aisles to allow for easier shopping 
  • Better ventilation for the health of plants and comfort of shoppers 
  • More than three times the space for hard goods, enabling us to provide better selection of fertilizers, pottery, soils and garden care products 
  • New houseplants department for gardeners that want indoor color year-round 
  • New landscape irrigation department to assist you in all your irrigation needs 
  • Complete handicap accessibility for elderly or disabled customers 
  • Dual checkout for improved traffic flow during peak season 

Throughout the duration of construction, we are open for business as usual. Our temporary sales office can be found across the street from the nursery in Greenhouse 3.

As we begin our reconstruction project, we want to express our gratitude for your business--we've been blessed to have the opportunity to serve you in our old facilities for the last 75 years and look forward to better serving you in our new garden center very soon!

October 16, 2013

Fall Clearance Sale Continues!

Updated October 26

Our fall clearance sale is well underway, and as we enter the final stretch for the season, we've marked nearly all of our remaining plants down to at least 40% off! We still have a great selection of many of our deciduous shrubs and leafy evergreens--as well as many great perennials--and with the nice weather forecast for the next week, this may be the time to get some planting done.

If you're wondering what's not included in the 40% off sale, here's the breakdown:

25% off
Dwarf boxwood

50% off
Fall flowers
Select shrubs, trees & perennials

Not on sale
Emerald green arborvitae
4" Lithodora

Take advantage of the great weather and our great prices before this sale wraps up and get that yard project taken care of in time for winter. Your wallet will thank you, and with a stress-free transplant, your new landscaping will thank you too!




September 18, 2013

Wordless Wednesday


New Season, New Color for Containers

Nothing says "fall" like mums!
Annuals are great for providing color all summer long—they’re really the workhorses of the plant world. But as with anything, annuals have their season, and if the flowers on your patio or deck are looking worn and you’re ready for something new, consider a few great options that will give your pots color for the rest of autumn—and even all winter long.

The quintessential fall flower has to be the chrysanthemum. Mums are great for fall color; they’re available in just about every color of the rainbow, need very little maintenance, and can be planted out in your yard after they’re done blooming for you to enjoy next year. When shopping for mums, avoid the temptation to buy them in full bloom. Mums only bloom once a year, and while their blooms last a long time, you’ll enjoy the flowers much longer if you buy plants just starting to show color.

'Violet Wing' Cool Wave pansy
A second must-have flower for fall is the classic winter pansy, but this year, there’s a new twist on the old standby: a cold-hardy trailing version! Initially debuted last fall, Cool Wave pansies are an aggressive trailing variety that spread or trail to two feet or more and are hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit. They need no deadheading and minimal watering once regular rains arrive, so they’re as low-maintenance as you’ll find. Last fall, I planted some in hanging baskets to try for the winter; starting in September, they bloomed until mid-June this year—and they might have gone longer if I wasn’t simply tired of looking at them!

Cool Wave pansies in hanging baskets or individual pots are now available at Vander Giessen's—they prefer cooler weather, so they’re usually a couple of weeks later than the first mums you’ll see out for fall.

A third broader category for fall planting is what I’ll call “foliage.” Most ornamental grasses are just coming into their peak season and many make great container plants. ‘Burgundy Bunny’ fountain grass is a nice dwarf variety with red-tinged blades; its soft, fluffy seed heads are reminiscent of a bunny tail. This variety is a perennial that can be planted out in your flowerbeds either this fall or next spring when you’re ready to plant your summer annuals.

One tender but certainly more striking grass is ‘Fireworks’ fountain grass. Hardy only to 20 degrees, it may not overwinter, but it’s certainly worth planting for its glorious fall color. Like ‘Burgundy Bunny,’ it displays showy seed heads this time of year. Most striking, though, is its fluorescent pink-, purple- and white-striped blades.

'Fireworks' fountain grass with heather
If grasses aren’t your thing, consider another tender perennial that’s new this year: ‘Inferno’
coprosma. Commonly called “mirror plant,” its super-glossy leaves look almost artificial. With splashes of color in shades of red, yellow, white and green, the foliage of ‘Inferno’ will coordinate well with almost any fall container planting. Keep in mind, though, that like ‘Fireworks’ fountain grass, coprosma may not overwinter should temperatures dip into the teens. Of course, these plants will survive if given sufficient protection from cold; shelter them on a south-facing front porch or in a garage during a cold snap and enjoy them in the garden all next year!

September is a season of transitions, and if you’re tired of looking at your weary summer annuals, give your pots a fresh burst of color for fall and winter. With an hour of planting and minimal watering or deadheading, you can have beautiful containers or hanging baskets to brighten up your porch for months to come!

September 16, 2013

Great Selection of Fall Flowers

If your summer flowers are looking tired--or you're just bored with what you have--check out the great selection of fresh fall flowers available now at the nursery!

Pansies, mums, ornamental cabbage and kale, fall grasses, fall-blooming heathers--even mum baskets and trailing winter pansy baskets--there's plenty of great color to take home for the fall and winter months. See you soon!

Fall Clearance Sale!

For you bargain hunters, it's time to get in the car and head over to Vander Giessen's--our fall clearance sale has begun! Right now, nearly our entire selection of trees, shrubs and perennials is on sale at 25% off. The only plants you'll find right now that aren't on sale are our fresh stock of 'Emerald Green' arborvitae and fall flowers.

Our sale is limited to stock on hand, and supply of many varieties of plants is limited, so stop in soon before the plants on your shopping list are gone. Remember, fall is the best time of year to plant--and with 25% off, your planting dollars will go even further toward giving you the garden you've been wanting. Enjoy the changing season and pick up some plants for your yard today!

September 5, 2013

Rhododendrons on Sale!

'Hotei' Rhododendron--a true yellow!
Rhododendrons are an easy-to-grow, colorful shrub for gardens in our corner of the northwest. They grow so well and are so pretty they're even our Washington state flower! Right now, our entire selection of "rhodies" is on sale at 30% off--and with 19 varieties on hand, there's sure to be one that fits your taste.

From dwarf varieties that top out less than two feet tall to larger plants that reach five or six feet; from solid green leaves to variegated leaves to red-toned foliage; from pink to purple to white to red to yellow--yes, even yellow--flowers there's bound to be a rhododendron that screams "take me home!"

Plant a rhododendron or two in your yard this fall and you'll have a well-established plant in time for blooming next spring.Supply on many of the more unique varieties is limited, so stop in soon to take advantage of this great savings.

August 21, 2013

Great Late-Summer Color!

Just because it's late summer doesn't mean you can't have fresh plants. We continue to receive regular deliveries of fresh perennials and shrubs for late summer and fall--check out some of the great color available now!


Beware Downy Mildew on Impatiens

I hate to even have to report this, but it appears that an ugly disease that has spent the last couple of years spreading westward across the country has reached the Pacific Northwest. It's called impatiens downy mildew, and it's quickly becoming the worst enemy of gardeners who love to grow impatiens. If you've struggled with growing impatiens this summer--or just want to be aware of what to watch for--here's the scoop on impatiens downy mildew.

First off, the symptoms (courtesy Michelle Grabowski, UMN Extension Educator). Typical symptoms that impatiens display may include the following:
Advanced symptoms of downy mildew.
Courtesy M.A. Hansen
  • Leaves first appear light yellow or stippled yellow & green.
  • Leaf edges curl downward; leaves appear wilted.
  • Fluffy white growth occurs on the lower surface of leaves.
  • Blossoms drop first. Next leaves fall off leaving bare green stems. Finally stems collapse and lay flat on the ground.
  • Plants infected young are stunted and have small leaves.
  • In very wet conditions, infected plant tissue becomes water soaked, soft and mushy.
Now, how does it spread? Downy mildew can spread any number of ways. It may come in on your new plants at the time of purchase. (At Vander Giessen's, we were very proactive this year, inspecting our impatiens 3-4 times per week for any symptoms of the disease. Thankfully, we never saw any symptoms.) It may also spread by spore-like structures through watering or via air currents.

Arguably, the worst aspect of impatiens downy mildew problem is its longevity. Because it's a relatively new disease to the U.S., little is known about how long the disease can last in infected soil. However, a very similar strain of the disease has been shown to last up to 10 years in contaminated soil, so impatiens downy mildew may have similar impacts.

As for treatment, unfortunately at this point there are no products that can cure the disease and little that gardeners can do to prevent it. If you discover downy mildew in your impatiens, remove the diseased plants and any fallen leaves or flowers, seal them in a plastic bag and dispose of them in your garbage. Don't risk spreading the disease by throwing your plants in a compost pile.

To avoid problems in your garden, be as proactive as possible! Impatiens downy mildew tends to be most active in wet, humid conditions, so to prevent making conditions right for the disease to thrive, water impatiens early in the morning and avoid getting the foliage wet if possible. Regularly check your plants for any symptoms of the disease and take quick action to dispose any suspect plants. 


New Guinea impatiens are a great disease-resistant
alternative for shade gardens.
All traditional varieties of impatiens (impatiens walleriana) are susceptible to downy mildew; however, New Guinea impatiens (impatiens hawkeri) have shown themselves to be highly resistant to the disease, so if you're a diehard impatiens lover, consider upgrading to the showier, larger-flowered cousin of this garden favorite. You can also consider other shade-loving and downy mildew-resistant plants like coleus or begonias for your flowerbeds.

Unfortunately, impatiens downy mildew is becoming a reality for gardeners now nationwide. While scientists work to develop a solution to the deadly disease, you can arm yourself with the knowledge of what you may be up against and the steps you can take to deal with it should it strike your garden.

August 20, 2013

Hydrangeas: When to Prune and How to Change Their Color

Macrophylla hydrangea--the most common type!
It's late summer, and despite all the other fun activities you’re trying to squeeze in before fall, now is the time to prune many varieties of hydrangeas around your yard. If you’ve ever struggled with getting your hydrangeas to bloom right—or even if you want to change the color of your blooms—here are some basic tips that can make your bushes look their best.

Hydrangeas come in many shapes, sizes and varieties, but for the most part, you’ll find four different types in garden centers and around your neighborhood—and knowing which type you have will determine when and how to prune.

First, macrophylla hydrangeas are the most common types. Whether you have the standard mophead (large, round flowers) or lacecap (very small blossoms surrounded by a ring of larger blooms on each flower head), prune them now! Macrophylla hydrangeas typically only bloom on old wood, meaning if you wait until next spring to prune your shrubs back, all the new growth they put out after their haircut will be nothing but leaves. Traditional mopheads and lacecaps should be pruned just as the blooms fade in summer so they have time yet before fall to develop flower buds for next year.

Paniculata hydrangea
The second most common hydrangea species is the paniculata family. You might know some of the common varieties like ‘Limelight,’ ‘Pee Gee’ or the newer ‘Bombshell,’ all of which are easily distinguishable by their cone-shaped flowers. Unlike macrophylla types, paniculatas can be pruned anytime between late summer and mid-spring, and may not even need regular pruning at all.

 A third common hydrangea species for our area is the arborescens type.  The most common of these varieties is ‘Annabelle,’ a white variety with large blooms, although others like ‘Invincibelle Spirit’—a  pink variety—are common, too. Like paniculatas, these hydrangeas can be pruned at any time other than late spring or summer.

The last main variety of hydrangea you’re likely to grow is quercifolia, more commonly known as oakleaf hydrangeas. They have cone-shaped flowers similar to paniculata types, but their leaf shape mimics that of an oak tree. Like macrophylla types, oakleaf hydrangeas should be pruned in late summer in order for them to bloom reliably the following year.

Now that you know the basic types of hydrangeas and when to prune each, let me offer this caveat: many of the new introductions in the last several years can be pruned just about any time of year, regardless of which species they are. So, if you’re in the market for a new hydrangea and want to keep things simple, ask at a garden center for some of the newer varieties! 

Finally, how can you change the color of your hydrangeas? In the Pacific Northwest, the acidity of our soil naturally turns macrophylla types blue over time. If you want to turn a hydrangea pink—or keep one that way—treat it with Bailey’s Color Me Pink™, a soil additive available at Vander Giessen's. Likewise, if you wish to intensify the shade of blue in your hydrangea, use Bailey’s Color Me Blue™.  Depending on your conditions and desired color, multiple applications of either product may be needed. For better or worse, the color of white varieties cannot be changed.

Hydrangeas are beautiful shrubs and easy to grow. With a little attention to what type you have in your yard, you can enjoy loads of flowers each year while also maintaining the size of your plants. And with a little extra care, you can even change the color of your blooms to suit your taste!